Crochet ‘macrame’ footstool pattern for Knitcraft

Crochet ‘macrame’ footstool pattern for Knitcraft

If there’s one thing I love, it’s trying to make crochet look like something else - knitting, weaving, macrame..! I don’t know why, partly it’s because I love texture and unusual stitches, and partly because I love the challenge! So when Knitcraft, the yarn arm of crafty superstore Hobbycraft, asked me to create a crochet footstool that looked like macrame, I jumped at the chance.

Their new yarn, Return of the Mac, is a lovely cotton cord ideal for macrame, but also well suited to more hardwearing and structural crochet items (think rugs, stools, wallhangings). I also used a 9mm hook to make this, so it works up really quickly!

(I was paid to create this pattern but not to promote it as it’s being published under the Knitcraft label, rather than my own, I’m just keen to share the pictures I took and a bit more about my design process! ☺️)

You can find a digital copy of the pattern here on the Hobbycraft website.

I’d love to know what you think of the pattern, and do let me know if you make it by tagging me as @lottieandalbert and #lottieandalbert on Instagram 😘

Easy Potato Print Scandi Playtent Tutorial

Potato print Scandi playtent tutorial

Ahh the mighty potato, father of chips, crisps, vodka and ... potato printing! I set myself the challenge of personalising this play tent from Hobbycraft using fabric paint and a potato, and I love the result!

This quick and easy update could also be made with older children for a great holiday make, and then endless hours keeping them entertained playing inside.

Scroll down for the easy tutorial and to see how to make your own.

{The play tent and fabric paint was kindly gifted to me by Hobbycraft, although I was under no obligation to create this post.}

You will need

A large baking potato
Sharp knife
Ready to decorate playtent
Tulip Matte fabric paint in black (I didn't use the white pictured in the end)
Tulip fabric markers
Large ruler

Step 1

Cut your large potato in half and mark out a large half moon shape, approx 2in, on one side and a small half moon, approx 1in, on the other side.

Step 2

Score carefully around the half moon shape with your knife, cutting down about 2cm. Then holding the knife horizontally, cut into the potato removing the top 2cm of flesh around the half moon shape. Repeat for both sides. 

Step 3

Cut your potato into a rectangle around the half moon shape - this will help you to see where you are placing the shape when it comes to printing. Set your potato stamp aside to dry a little.

Step 4

Unfold your tent and, on the front side of all panels, mark out a grid pattern using your ruler and fabric pen. I created a grid in 4in squares for a Scandi look.

Step 5

Turn your tent inside out, ready for the printing stage!

Step 6

Using the two half moon shapes, print shapes on the inside of the two front panels. This way, when you fold the panels back when the tent is set up, the pattern will peep out!
Squirt the black fabric paint into a shallow dish, and dip the shapes gently into it to pick up the paint.
Following the fabric maker horizontal lines (you should just about be able to see them through the fabric), push firmly down on the tent surface to transfer the paint. Don't worry if the paint looks a little patchy or uneven - this all adds to the look. If there are any large patches that haven't been covered at then end, you could always fill them in with a paint brush.

Step 7

Once your paint is dry, you are ready to turn the fabric back the right way, contract your tent following the instructions, and enjoy!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, please do follow me on Instagram at @lottieandalbert to keep up to date with future tutorials! The pattern for the half moon crochet bunting is soon to follow!

Lindsey x

Soumak Colour Pop Weave - Free Tutorial

Soumak Colour Pop Weave

Let your colourful yarns shine with this fun soumak colour pop beginner’s weave  

Materials

• Rico Small Weaving Loom - I got mine from Hobbycraft
• YARN A - Women’s Institute Home Cotton Aran – 100g in White 
• YARN B - Selection of super chunky yarns – I used Plump by Mrs Moon
• Warping thread or strong 4ply cotton yarn
• Scissors

Set up your loom

Start by attaching the metal rods included in the Rico Small Weaving Loom to the outermost slots in the loom and tightening them. This will stop your weave from pulling in at the sides.

Using your warping thread or 4ply cotton, tie to the bottom or top of the loom, through the first of the slots, then wrap the thread over and under every other slot, keeping it fairly taught, until you get to the last slot. Tie off your thread. You should now have the thread (your warp thread) running vertically up and down the loom – and you’re ready to start!

Tip: you may want to only warp up half your loom for a small test weave if it’s your first weave. If you do, move your metal rod to the desired width and make sure you have an even number of warp threads.

Using Yarn A, wind off a piece that is a few arm lengths long. We are now going to tie this in knots to secure the bottom of the loom. Starting bottom left, tie Yarn A around your first warp thread. At the second warp thread, take yarn A over the warp, wrap it behind the same warp, and then bring it underneath to the front between the first and second warp threads, as shown in the picture. Repeat this process again on the same warp.

Now move across your loom to the right, wrapping Yarn A twice around each warp thread until you get to the end, tie off your yarn.

How to make tassels 

If you would like to add tassels to your weave, here’s how! Wrap Yarn A around your hand (or piece of card if you would like a longer tassel) several times. I wrapped mine approx. six times – the more you wrap, the thicker your tassel will be.

 

Slide the yarn off and cut through all lengths at the bottom. Holding all the lengths in the middle, lie the threads over two warp threads. Now pull all the threads on the right-hand side under one warp thread and through the middle. Repeat with all the threads on the left-hand side, pulling them under and into the middle, as seen in the picture.

Now pull your tassel down to the bottom to secure! You can trim your tassels at the end when the weave is off the loom. If you are using really chunky yarn, you may want to wrap the tassels over more warp threads.

How to soumak

I made all my soumaks first, so that I could plan my colours and check I was happy with the layout before I did the main body of the weaving.

Using Yarn B, start from the back of the weave and leave a long tail, which you will weave in later. Pull Yarn B from behind your weave, up and over the top of two warp threads. Loop Yarn B down and under the second warp thread so that Yarn B comes back out in between the first and second warp threads. Pass Yarn B over two more warp threads to the right, and repeat the process. Continue in this way until your soumak is the desired length – I made mine all around 6-8 warp threads wide.

To return your soumak and make the row underneath, the next time you wrap over two warps and bring your yarn underneath and in between them, repeat the above but wrap Yarn B over and under the warp threads back in the opposite direction, to the left, as seen in the picture.

 

When you reach the end, bring your tail end to the back of the weave and tie to the first Yarn B tail. Weave these in at the end.

 

How to tabby weave

Tabby weaving is the most basic form of weaving, taking the weft thread over and under the warp thread. When you reach the edge of the loom and work back in the opposite direction, make sure you are doing the opposite to the row before and weave under and over the warp threads that you wove over and under previously.

When you get to the edges and the metal rods, you will want to wrap your yarn around the rods – these will be removed at the end.

Take a few arm lengths of Yarn A at a time, and wrap them around the large wooden weft needle supplied with the loom. If you don’t have a wooden weft needle, try using large tapestry or yarn needle with an eye wide enough for your yarn.

When you reach the soumaks, carry the Yarn A you are tabby weaving with underneath the soumak on the back of the work. Keep an eye on your tension, you will want it taught enough not to sag behind the soumaks, but not so tight that you are pulling on the metal rods at the edges.

Continue tabby weaving and filling in around the Yarn B soumaks using Yarn A until you reach a few centimetres from the top, or your desired length.

Tip: use the comb included in the loom to push down your rows very now and again – this will help keep them neat and uniform.

Finishing

Using a few lengths of Yarn A, tie a series of knots along the top of your work, as you did at the base. Now gently unscrew and slide out the metal rods along the side of your work.

You do not need to cut the warp threads at the bottom of the piece – instead simply slide them off the loom.

At the top of the loom, you may want to use the warp threads to tie around a length or wood or stick, to hand your loom from. If you do, cut your warp threads at the top of the loops, and tie two together around your chosen hanger, until you reach the end.

Weave in any ends, and trim your tassels.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Find Lindsey and more free Lottie & Albert patterns at @lottieandalbert and www.lottieandalbert.blogspot.com

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Crochet Monstera Leaf Pompom Crown - free pattern

Let's be honest, no one needs an excuse to wear a pompom crown. Perhaps it's your birthday or festival season, or perhaps you just want to feel a bit special while you're doing the washing up?! Make yourself a super quick and fun pompom crown with Monstera Cheese Plant leaves, and then wear it with pride!

You Will Need

Knitcraft Cotton Blend Plain DK 100g each of:

1 x Mustard 

1 x Purple 

1 x Teal 

1 x Light Pink

1 x Coral

3mm crochet hook

6cm Pompom maker

fabric-covered hairband 

Thin floristry wire (I used this one)

Metal yarn needle

Abbreviations

This pattern is written in UK crochet terms

ch        chain

dc        double crochet (US single crochet)

htc       half treble crochet (US half triple crochet)

tc         treble crochet (US triple) crochet

st(s)     stitch(es)

ss         slip stitch

Gauge

Gauge is not essential for this project, although using a smaller hook than the ball band recommends will help keep give your cheese plant leaves shape.

Stitch descriptions

Slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, pull second loop through first loop on hook

Double crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops

Half treble crochet: Yarn over once, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook

Treble crochet: Yarn over once, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on hook.

Cheese Plant (Monstera deliciosa) pattern

Make 1 in each colour.

Starting chain: leaving a long tail before your slip knot, Ch16

Leaf point: ss in 2^nd chain from hook, dc, htc, tc along starting chain, ch3, ss in next 2 chains along starting chain

Leaf 1: ch4, ss into the top of the ch3 from the leaf point, ch3 and work tc, htc, dc, ss back along the ch4 you made at the start of leaf 1, ss in next 2 chains along starting chain

Leaf 2: ch6, ss into the top of the ch3 from leaf 1, ch3 and work tc, htc, dc, 3ss back along the ch6 you made at the start of leaf 2, ss in next 2 chains along starting chain

Leaf 3: ch6, ss into the top of the ch3 from leaf 2, ch 2 and work htc, tc, htc, dc, 2ss back along the ch6 you made at the start of leaf 3, ss in next 2 chains along starting chain

Leaf 4: ch5, ss into the top of the ch2 from leaf 3, ch2 and work htc, tc, htc, dc, ss back along the ch5 you made at the start of leaf 4, ss in next 2 chains along starting chain

Leaf 5: ch4, ss into the top of the ch2 form leaf 4, ch1 and work dc, htc, tc, htc back along the ch4 you made at the start of leaf 4, ss in last chain of starting chain

Without turning your work over, rotate the leaf 90 degrees clockwise. You are now going to work back down the starting chain towards the leaf point, on the other side of the starting chain.

Stem: Ch2 (does not count as stitch), 11htc, 2dc, 3ss, turn

Leaf point: ss in 2^nd stitch from end, htc, tc, ss in next 2 stitches along starting chain

Repeat Leaves 1-5 along the other side, working the final 2 ss for each leaf into the htc on the other side of the starting chain. Fasten off and leave a long end.

Cut a length of wire slightly longer than the leaf and weave the wire through the middle of the leaf stem. Fasten the wire to the top and bottom of the leaf stem, while stretching the leaf slightly. This will allow you to shape the leaf when it is attached to your hairband.

Pompoms

Using your 6mm pompom maker, make one pompom in each of the five colours – make sure you trim your pompoms thoroughly to shape them neatly.

Attach your five pompoms to the hairband by tying them on, then sewing any end through the fabric of your hairband to secure them. I positioned my pompoms as follows: Light pink – coral – mustard – teal – purple. Now attach your cheese plant leaves using the long tails and ends you left to tie and then sew to the headband. Follow the photographs to position yours, or make it up as you go!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Please feel free to leave me a comment here or over on Instagram @lottieandalbert, and use the hashtag lottieandalbert so I can see what you've made!

Lindsey x