Friday, 13 July 2018

Giant Granny Square Wallhanging - free crochet pattern

Granny Square Wallhanging 

Turn the humble granny square into a statement wallhanging in an evening! Super chunky yarn and tassels and plaits make this beginner’s project look much more complicated than it is and, bonus, it’s super fast to make!
 

This pattern is written in UK terms (with US conversions given below).


Materials

15mm crochet hook (I used Clover)
Length of wooden dowel or stick approx. 65cm x 3cm

Finished wallhanging size

Including plaits and tassels: 55cm x 90cm
Granny square only: 45cm x 45cm

Gauge

Gauge is not essential for this project, but if your granny square is too loose it may sag when hung.

Abbreviations

ch        chain
tc         treble crochet (US double crochet)
ss         slip stitch

Stitch descriptions

Slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, pull this loop through first loop on hook
Treble crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over again and pull though remaining two loops.


Pattern starts

Using Bernat Maker Big and 15mm hook, make a 6-round granny square:

Round 1:

1.     Attach your yarn to your hook using a slip knot, and chain 6 stitches.


2.     Turn your chain into a circle by slip stitching into the first chain on your hook.
3.     Chain 3 (counts as first treble crochet) then work two treble crochets into the middle of the circle you have made. This counts as spoke 1 out of 4 on your first round.



4.     Chain 2 to turn the corner, then work three treble crochets into the centre of the circle. Repeat this step two more times. You should now have four sets of spokes and four corners on your granny square. Slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 from step 3 to join your first round. 


Round 2:

1.     Chain 5 (counts as a treble crochet and a 2-chain space), and make 3 treble crochets into the corner of the round below. Chain 2 to turn the corner, and make 3 more trebles into the same corner you just worked into.


2.     Chain 2, then make 3 trebles, 2 chains, and another 3 trebles into the next corner. 


3.     Repeat step 2 two more times: on the last corner, you have already made the very last treble, and so after you have turned the corner you only need to make 2 trebles. Join to the 3rd chain in your chain 5 from step 1 to join. 


Round 3:

1.     Chain 3 (counts as a treble crochet), and make 2 trebles in the chain-2 space immediately to the left.
2.     Chain 2 then make 3 trebles, 2 chains, and another 3 trebles into the corner. Chain 2, and make three trebles in the chain-2 space.


3.     Continue in this way until you reach the final corner. Chain 2 more stitches, then slip stitch into the top of the chain 3 you made in step 1.

Round 4:

1.     Begin the round by chaining 5 (counts as a treble crochet and a 2 chain space), and working round the square making 3 trebles in each space, and 3 trebles, chain 2, 3 trebles in the corners. Each group of trebles should be separated by 2 chains. Finish the round in the same way you finished round 2.

Round 5:

1.     Begin the round by chaining 3 (counts as a treble crochet), and making 2 trebles in the chain 2 space immediately to the left. Work round the square making 3 trebles in each space, and 3 trebles, chain 2, 3 trebles in the corners. Each group of trebles should be separated by 2 chains. Finish the round in the same way you finished round 3.

Round 6:

1.     Begin the round by chaining 5 (counts as a treble crochet and a 2 chain space), and working round the square making 3 trebles in each space, and 3 trebles, chain 2, 3 trebles in the corners. Each group of trebles should be separated by 2 chains. Finish the round in the same way you finished round 2. Cut and fasten off yarn.


At the end of round 6, weave in any ends.

To make the tassels:

Cut the following lengths of yarn

4 strands at 40cm
4 strands at 45cm
4 strands at 50cm
4 strands at 55cm
4 strands at 60cm
4 strands at 65cm
4 strands at 70cm
4 strands at 75cm

Each tassel is 2 made of strands of yarn, so separate each group of 4 stands out into 2 strands.
Taking one tassel (2 strands), fold in half, the insert in the bottom stitches of your granny square, making a lark’s head knot by passing the ends of the tassel through the middle of the folded tassel, and pulling to secure. 



Space out your tassels in every other stitch along the bottom of one side of your granny square, stating at the edge with the 40cm, then placing a longer tassel each time until you have a 75cm tassel in the middle. Now work along the square placing shorter and shorter tassels until you reach the other side. 


To attach to stick or dowel:

Cut one length of yarn approx. 65 cm long, and tie to one end of your dowel or stick, now tightly wrap around dowel and through each chain 2 space on the top edge of your granny square, until you reach the other side. Tie tightly to dowel. 


To make the plaits:

With the remaining yarn on your ball, separate out into 6 equal long lengths of yarn. Fold in half, then cut at half way point. You should now have two sets, both 6 strands each, to form your plaits.


Taking one set of 6, fold in half again, placing the halfway point over the top of your stick to the side of your granny square. This will give you 12 lengths of yarn hanging down to plait with. Form a plait, with the three parts of the plait each being 4 strands worked together. Repeat this on the other side of the stick. Tie your plaits to close them.

Trim any tassels or plaits to suit, and enjoy!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Find Lindsey and more free Lottie and Albert patterns at @lottieandalbert and www.lottieandalbert.blogspot.com









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Sunday, 17 June 2018

Cotton Basket Bag - Free Crochet Pattern


Make your crochet a statement part of your outfit and personalise it with pompoms in your colour palette. See you at the market, or park, or beach…

Worked with Aran yarn held double, this cotton bag grows quickly. With the option of adding cardboard to a channel around the edge, the bag is also sturdy and keeps it's shape!


Materials
Wooden bag handles, 18cm – I used these
7mm crochet hook
Length of thick cardboard approx. 90cm (L) x 8cm (W) – I cut up a cardboard box!
Assorted pompom makers and acrylic yarn scraps for pompoms

Finished bag size
Approx. 40cm (W) x 24cm (H – without handles) x 9cm (D)

Gauge
10cm square = 12sts x 11rows in rows of dc with yarn held double, though gauge is not essential

Abbreviations
ch        chain
dc        double crochet (US single crochet)
inc       increase – work two double crochet in one stitch
st(s)     stitch(es)
ss         slip stitch

Stitch descriptions
Slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, pull this loop through first loop on hook
Double crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops


Bag pattern – MAKE 2

Foundation row
Using a 7mm crochet hook and the yarn held double, make 24dc around the bottom bar of the bag handle, turn. (24 sts)

Row 1 
Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch throughout pattern), 6dc, inc, dc until 7 sts remain, inc, 6dc. (26 sts)


Rows 2-13 
Repeat row 1. (50 sts at end of row 13)



Row 14
2ss, 6dc, inc, 6dc, inc, sc until 16 stitches remain, inc, 6dc, inc, 6dc, leave last two stitches unworked, turn. (50 sts not including slip stitches)

Row 15-26
Repeat row 14, do not count slip stitches from previous row as stitches. Cut and fasten off yarn. (50 sts)

Row 27
Turn your work 90 degrees clockwise, as shown in picture. 
Reattach yarn to the first slip stitch of row 14, and ss in each of the 2ss. Next, dc in the unworked dc stitches from row 15, ss in 2ss from row 16, dc in unworked dc stitches from row 17. Continue in this way, working ss in the slip stitches, and dc in the unworked double crochets until you reach the bottom of the bag at row 26. Work one dc in each stitch around the bottom until you get to the other side, work back up the bag in the same way you worked down the opposite side. Stop when you have worked the last of the unworked stitches for row 14. Cut and fasten off yarn. (102 stiches)

This will neaten off the edges of the bag panels ready for joining with side panels.









Side panel 1
Having made two bag panels, using a 7mm crochet hook and two strands of yarn held double, choose one panel and place it wrong side up (you can choose which is wrong and which is right). Reattach the yarn to one end of Row 27 in the back loop only.

Row 1
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) and, working in the back loop only, make one dc in each stitch, turn. (102).












Rows 2-8
Repeat row 1. (102)

Row 9
Take second bag panel and place it right sides together with the one you are working on. Ss in the front loop only of each stitch from second bag panel row 27. At the end of the row, cut and fasten off yarn. Your two bag panels should now be joined by a side panel.


Side panel 2
We are now going to make a second side panel to sit on top of the first. This will create a channel through which we will slide the strip of cardboard to stiffen the bag.
Reattach the yarn to one end of Row 27 in an unworked loop.

Row 1
Ch1 (does not count as a stitch) and, working in the unworked loops only, make one dc in each stitch, turn. (102).

Rows 2-8
Repeat row 1. (102)

Row 9
Ss in the unworked loop only of each stitch from the second bag panel along row 27. At the end of the row, cut and fasten off yarn. Your two bag panels should now be joined by two side panels.

Turn your bag right sides out. Now slide the cardboard in between the two side panels. To close the tops of the side panel channels, whip stitch using a tapestry needle and one strand of yarn, or slip stitch using your crochet hook. Repeat on both sides.



Weave in ends, make and attach pompoms of your choice to one side of the bag!


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Find Lindsey and more free Lottie and Albert patterns at @lottieandalbert and www.lottieandalbert.blogspot.com








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